Sunsets on the Bay-"Spectacular"

Visit by Mom

A great visit with the family got smiles from everyone at Tabasakwa.

22 hours across the Gulf of Mexico/2004

LOOP Report 06/06/2005

June 6th, 2005

Tabasakwa Island, Georgian Bay
Ontario, Canada

Hey everybody out there, believe it or not, WE DID IT!

The Great Circle Loop is now officially closed.

All the details yet to be sorted out. But some say it’s close to 6000 miles plus and at the exilerating and majestic average speed of 9.8 miles per hour it proved daunting.

Arrived to a welcome committee of local boater/cottage friends at David and Susan’s cottage at 6:30 PM Sunday having left Orillia at 9:30 AM.

The last leg took us through the Severn River Section of the system. Here you get to ride one of the other many great engineering feats on the canal.

The Marine Railway.!

This machine is right out of a science fiction Star Wars episode. You park the boat above the slings and it picks you up, boat, people and all else we carry on board up into the air and over the Canadian Shield and back down into the beautiful waters of Gloucester Pool and on to one more lock at Port Severn and out into glorious Georgian Bay.

Put up the mast again with our many US state flags flying. One for every state we put foot to shore. At a moment while calmly passing the famous rocks and shallows we know so well, a shot glass of grog and a salute to arriving back was called for and quickly dispensed forthwith.

The last turn in between island rock and pine to see our Tabasakwa Island appear.…

A very magical moment.

Looped Loopers…Ted, Pat, David and Susan

LOOP Report 06/02/2005

June 2nd, 2005
Trent Severn Canal System,
Peterborough, Ontario
Canada


The Chinook and crew have now been hustling up the Hudson River leaving behind a grand Atlantic Ocean adventure.

From Washington and Annapolis we headed into the large waters of Delaware Bay and on to Cape May. Here we headed out on a fine calm day at 6:30 AM into the Atlantic and headed for Atlantic City on the coast to arrive at noon. We beat the winds that were to come up in the afternoon. We carried on into the inland waterway and headed for a little marina in Forked River (pronounced fork…ed) New Jersey.

Weather turned windy so rented a car and went back to Atlantic City to see the Boardwalk and Casinos. The ocean was rough but the city boardwalk was sunny and busy with weekend sightseers. The Tropicana Casino Complex was interesting but mostly just a big slot machine made to relieve you of any spare change you have accumulated. They were out of luck with this crowd as our pockets are quite empty now. What quarters we have are needed for laundry machines and newspaper when you can find them.

The ICW behind the outer coast is incredibly shallow showing anywhere from 0 feet to 1 foot at some edges and turns in the path they’ve cleared. The rest of the channel was 1 foot to 5 feet. We went very slow and took our time while other locals just roared on by.

Weather showed a good window next day so got rid of rental, fueled up and took off to see what the coast waters looked like by heading out the inlet jetty at Manasquan through some big waves created by sportsfisherman boats coming and going…Quite the ride out…all was tied down secure….Hey… the ocean was calm so we kept going.

Turned out nice all the way,… with a large ocean swell rocking us gently and a 1to 2 foot wave at times,… we kept on going all the way to New York City….Then as we approached the skies opened up and the ocean came down from above and we rode it out right past the Statue of Liberty hardly being able to see her through the deluge.. felt like being on an ark…same for the Manhattan skyline as it was hard to see for the rain. All the while David and I were getting soaked on the bridge cause we didn’t want to miss anything.. It still was an exciting time just to be entering such a magnificent active harbour…so toughed it out right into Liberty Marina which was just across the Hudson River from New York City in New Jersey and within a kiss or stone throw of the Lady. She’s outstandingly pretty and I prefer the kiss as a thought.


Next morning after being docked for a quiet night within sight of Manhattan we left to head north up the Hudson but made the quick decision to head back to the pretty lady as the sun was out for a great photo opportunity. Got our photos and they are super and all was worth the diversion.

Then on up past the city on our starboard to see what was no longer there now, no thanks to some maniacal madmen. It gives you strange emotions to past by the scene of such a horrible moment in our current memory.

Onwards up the Hudson River past the urban noise and now passing by pretty hills and very green landscapes. As we proceed we see trains and highways heading into New York City. Could be a great ride by train, Toronto to New York. As we past West Point Academy and other great places of historical interest we are now counting the few places left before arriving back in Lake Ontaio. One neat Marina did have a hot tub which finally made a very long day a pure joy.

Well, there is lots more let me tell you, as this system is old but new. Each little town is getting their waterfronts cleaned up with parks and docks. One such place we stopped for a free night dock where I met a guy fishing for pike off the dock. He had a great hat and looked interesting. As we talked he wanted to know if in fact I’d rather live in Canada still and of course I said yes. He said he liked the Canadian way. Being he was an Amish person he mentioned they like our medical system as they go up to have things corrected much easier and less expensive. Anyways I ended up saying I’m a guest here in the US and was not into discussing his or their politics. Got a nice photo of his horse “smoke” and the austere and simple carriage though.

Dammed if the next morning we aren’t just going under a bridge headed for our first lock and somebody shouts at us from the bridge above. It’s Mr. Amish and his horse and carriage headed across at great speed. Quite the coincidental experience.

Couple hours later an Amtrac High Speed Train headed for NY also toots his horn at us and waves from the cab.

Interesting traffic on the Hudson.

We are facing the daunting task now of going through many locks and getting closer to Lake Ontario. Starting at the Town of Waterford and lock #1 we head into the New York State Erie Canal. Much history here as the canal was opened October 26th 1825 and the “Seneca Chief” and a boatload of politicians headed by Governor Clinton, took two barrels of water from Lake Erie and emptied them ( the water not the politicians ) into the Ocean at New York to be know as the “Marriage of the Waters”. Some marriages work well and this surely is one of them.

The rest is lock after lock and canals with trees after trees, not much sign of wildlife except bird calls in the trees along side…. and Canada geese with babies everywhere along the shores.

Finally arrived after countless days of locks at the entrance to Lake Ontario which lies just off the inlet to Oswego, NY. Will soon be back in clear fresh waters of our Canada.

Crossed the Great Lake Ontario early AM to Main Duck Island and into the protected harbour of Picton. It was a good crossing so we were lucky with weather again, just a small roll on our beam because of west winds of 5-10 coming at us with the full fetch from Niagara way. We were out of it and in the lee of Prince Edward County as it began to build more after 12:00 noon. Crossing over that border line in the middle of the lake was sweet.

Oh….Canada…our home and …….you have to know after many months away that this is one highest of the highs of this trip. Beautiful fresh clear water. Next,…will be back with family…soon.

Tomorrow we face one of the most impressive of all locks in North America, The Peterborough Lift Lock, 65 feet. Completed in 1904

Closing in the loop

Loopers…Ted, Pat, David and Susan

LOOP Report 05/15/2005

May 15, 2005
Annapolis, Maryland

Navy, Airforce, Police,… we’ve been among all these big gun types since leaving Bellhaven, North Carolina and heading towards Washington D.C. by way of Annapolis, Maryland.


But we’ll back track to renting a car near the Outer Banks known as Cape Hatteras in The Alligator River Marina….

We had hit bad weather so decided to lay up couple days and a side trip by car to Cape Hatteras and The Wright Brothers Memorial and Airfield was required. The lighthouse is the large one they moved away from the sea which was about to consume it with it’s next big wave. To be simple about it, they pushed it down a track at a very slow speed lest it got away on them and trundelled down to the ocean. It was placed to expose the dangers of far out shoals to the many crazy mariners who decide to hike around by the open ocean. This is why it’s known as the graveyard of the Atlantic. Susan was the only one to walk up the many 208 foot high Lighthouse stairs as the rest of us were busy taking pictures, I’m not saying we couldn’t do it, just that other things to do were more important at that time…sitting on a nice bench was one.


We had 60MPH gale force winds recorded at the nearby swing bridge ( they close it down in 35 MPH winds ) the day before going to Cape Hatteras. We were in the safety of Alligator River Marina so next day by car we saw the ocean and beach after being hit by the full fury of the gale the day before. They were shoveling sand off the Outer Banks road with what looked like snow plows. Roads were also flooded as the waves had come up and combined with torrential rains. Of course all the houses and cottages out here are on stilts with their garages below. We prefer our location on Georgian Bay.

Also nearby on the Outerbanks…

The Wright Brothers are another one of those beautiful stories of ..”it can’t be done”…but we’re doing it anyways, so stuff-it to all you experts who bury your heads in the past. On December 17th, 1903 off they went for all of 12 seconds, Orville as the test pilot and Wilbur running along side. Both creating a new world for all of us. A very impressive hilltop monument to these men of flight. They must have always thought their glasses were half full. A special place to mark such a great moment in time and to two great visionary men.

When the weather lifted we headed for Elizabeth City and the start of the Dismal Swamp. Crossed the large Sound of Albemarle, a small roll for 4 hours but ok and docked in their waterfront marina. Sunday shops are mostly closed, sleepy little town. There was a welcome by two elderly folks representing the “Rose Buddies” who used to greet all boaters with roses and a friendly chat. They are now to old so others come and offer wine and cheese at 5:00 PM. So at this gathering we now met and talked with more boaters who are headed north and our Canadian waters.


Going through the Dismal Swamp and its locks was a pretty cruise. This is the oldest and longest operating canal in the USA.( dug by slaves I suspect as it’s straight and deep for a good long haul). Now the Corp of Engineers keeps it that way. We met one of their dredges and waited for them to move over to shore as it’s that narrow. The only wildlife we are seeing are many Osprey hawks in couples on nests built on any dead tree or pole they find.

Coming down the canal we crossed the Virginia border. We arrived in Norfolk,Virginia and many large freighters and warships of all kinds all around. Of course we give way to these boats as they are not known to change course for just a little Canadian.

Had a good stay here and enjoyed visiting the Battleship Wisconsin “Wisky” with David. This ship has quite a history and is still ready for duty if called so we could only walk the decks. The ladies went and did their own sightseeing at the grocery store. Somebody has to do it!.On walking back along the waterfront path we came across another war memorial to the fallen. Took my breath away as this was the most well designed and thoughtful concept to date. Scattered by the wind pieces of paper (bronze plaques). Copies of letters written (during all the various wars since 1776) home to loved ones, written by soldiers that later died in battle. They were laying about in various locations against a wall or in the dirt garden as blown there and could be picked up at any moment and re gathered. As you walk and read these poignant letters you get the message of how terrible wars are. It was a moment not to forget on our trip.

On leaving we were approached by a Canadian warship coming into harbour. Gave them a call on the VHF and made small talk on channel 17 and wished them good sailing and they returned with the same and waved from the bridge. Not to often you get to chat with a Canadian Warship. They did give their name as “Isle de Quebec”. All the the crew were on deck giving salute in uniform but facing shore and the Naval docks as we passed on their starboard.

As we were going out towards sea we were passed by a freighter doing 8 Knots and a US Warship doing 16 knots so we stayed clear once again but we passed another trawler doing 7 Knots while we were doing 9.5. Now all we had to do was get up the Chesapeake to Annapolis. A gray day it was and small waves made the trip a simple run up the bay…

but once again…

We saw a strange 30 foot yellow boat with numbers 903 and a red tower of lights, curious, I called him onVHF 16 and switched to 17, the response was…..”we are a beacon for lining up the targets you see ahead of you as you are in a restricted area for airforce target practice…..but for now you are ok going onwards”…So on we went and as we are passing these unusual umbrella looking targets a patrol boat with flashing lights comes our way and suggests by VHF radio we go east 1 1/4 mile off our northern route and once again we do as we are told cause we are such nice courtesy type boaters.
(We knew by our charts this was a restricted area but there had been no advance warning on our VHF and you can travel through these areas. We were not the only ones that had to be moved to the east)

Later saw some impressive jets playing high above us but did not witness or hear the target runs.

Coming into Annapolis was a thrill as it’s the home of The USA Naval Academy and the harbour is jammed with all types of boats mostly sail though. We have all our flags flying including the latest of Maryland. A great little town of shops and restaurants.

Well, we have our rental car and now are off to Washington D.C. The streets are filled with police in and out of uniform from everywhere. All wear their gold shields around their necks. Guess what?, seems we’ve landed here during a weekend when a special memorial dedication to the nations police who have died in line of duty. We saw the Presidential Limo and 6 police car escort flying down the street to attend this event at the Capitol Building. Every police car and motorcycle in the USA seems to be here, wondering who’s watching the shop back home?


Had to see the new Smithonian Museum of the American Natives. This was worth the trip as it made very clear the current vibrant Renaissance and the past stormy history of their continuing existence. Many beautiful exhibits of art and objects both new and ancient. It includes many tribes not too well known from Southern Chile to our own Northern Inuit. I recommend this as a good destination of learning. To top this Pat and I went back Sunday to do the War Memorials. The Viet Nam Memorial, Korean and others here are mind bending. To get lightened up a little I took off for the Gallery of Art to see the Toulouse and Montmarte exhibit, a special look into this man’s monumental works and his very brief life, dying at 36. By the way forgot to mention lunch in a Spanish Restaurant of tapas roasted duck and next day of French Normandy soft shell crab Provencale. Things are goo…oo…ood.

Not sure whether food for thought or food for nourishment is better. Certain we need both to carry on our fabulous loop journey.


Eating and pondering….. Loopers…Ted, Pat, David and Susan

LOOP Report 05/03/2005

Wednesday
May 3, 2005

Bellhaven, North Carolina

Arrived here after a long day trip from pretty Beaufort, N.C.( pronounced as bow-fort as different from Beaufort S.C. pronounced as beu-fort ) travelling a distance away from the notorious Cape Hatteras. This Cape eats boats and spits them up on the rocks like mellon seeds. So as to stay in safe waters and not be snack food we took the ICW. We cruise canals, back rivers, ditchs and across Pamlico River, a large body of water more like a Sound to continue on back into the safe area again called Pungo River. We had left at 9:15 A.M. to arrive at 5:00 P.M. A long day but good weather and small roll.

Now, before getting to Beaufort N.C. we enjoyed the southern city of Charlston S.C. The houses are old and have many nice gardens including the churchs also. There is much more to say about southern living and this cities history but another time. Of interest also was the small port of Surf City. Sleepy little town waiting for the summer crowds. The beach had polished stones and nice shells including finding a small sharks tooth. Local history story tellers have it that a German sub was sunk just off shore in 42’ and 33 sailors taken as prisoners, many of the crew went down with the ship These were the first prisoners of war to be interned in the US since 1812. Guess that makes the sub and her crew another type of food for Posieden and Cape Hatteras, The Crystal Coast.

Now we will be headed for Elizabeth City and the Dismal Swamp Canal and Locks.

Must mention the seafood has not stopped being incredible. Soon we’ll try a roast of beef just to make a change of menu. Eat your heart out Cape Hatteras. Eh!

Loopers on the return.

Ted, Pat, David and Susan